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Wendells RV-6A
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Date: 1-8-2012
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Number of Hours: 4.00
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Manual Reference: Seat Pan Co-Pilot
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Brief Description: Install nut plates and final fit.
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So, I understand why some people decide not to do nutplates instead of pop rivets. 43 nut plates for each seat pan. 86 nut plate rivet holes. Dimple and/or countersink 86 nut plate rivet holes. Choose the hard-to-get-a-screwdriver-on screws along the side wall and tap the nut plates there to ease up the binding a little. For dimpled nut plate holes, dimple the K1000-08 nut plates. Decide which nut plate rivets are very difficult to set properly because of interference with side walls, other side wall rivet shop heads, etc and then drill those out to 7/64 for MK319BS pop rivets. On and on. Granted, when done, you have a totally accessible floor that a powered screw driver can unscrew in no time. I guess I'll repeat it on the pilot side too. No more dimples. I will use NAS1097 rivets and just do a minor countersink for those small heads. I won't mess with trying to set a rivet in close quarters. I'll go straight to MK319BS making sure the countersink is large enough for the flush head. I also will not have my index finger accidently underneath the spring loaded center punch. Dumb, dumb, dumb. With the seat pan in place, I located and drilled the seatback stop in place. Adding more pieces to the priming bin. Also, I am adding a couple pieces of angle as stiffeners between the outer two rib spaces to firm up the floor ribs. You can get them into position for seat pan screws with an ice pick, but they should be stiffer IMHO.
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Floor ribs are flexible and make sure they are positioned correctly before drilling. wood blocks work
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Seat back stop in position now.
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Just another view. Ready for primer
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