Brief Description: Installed cabin heat box/tried bending canopy fram
I decided to install the cabin heat box which requires a FW penetration for the actuating cable. This is the stainless steel valve box that I ordered from Van's and is different from the triangular shaped box that is normally sent with the FWF kit (but all aluminum). I used some high temp RTV to seal the box to the 2" hole and pop-riveted from the aft side of the FW. The box has a 2" outlet that vents the hot air to the engine compartment when the valve is closed. I'll add a piece of scat tubing to direct the hot air down toward the exit area between the exhaust pipes. When the valve is open the hot air enters the cabin. I may regret using this box since I later discovered the triangular box in stainless steel at Avery Tools. The rectangular box causes the scat tubing to make a hard 90 degree bend to connect while the 45 degree box makes for an easier connection. We'll see!
We tried bending the canopy frame again, but this time we used a conduit bender. Still no luck. Every attempt causes another out-of-spec in another place. We've sent pictures to Van's builder assistance help guys to see if they can help. I think the only solution is to cut the aft bows and then bend them to the mold line of our turtledeck skin; then bend the side bows to the 1/16" inside the side skins. After the aft bows matches the mold line, it should be easy to reweld to the side bows. I just need to find someone to do the welding. We also scalloped the roller rails on the aft end to keep them inside the side skins. Waiting to hear back from Van's builder assistance department. As if I didn't know what they're going to say!!
Cabin heat box installed just below FW recess.
Using conduit bender to try to adjust canotpy frame. No success. Frustrating!!!!
Scalloped roller rails to be just inside side skin.
