I read somewhere about using a couple two inch wide ripped pieces of plywood to position the ailerons and flaps. I cut up a sheet of 15/32 plywood and on the end of the two strips, I made a 11 degree angled cut on both pieces so when you squeeze/bolt the end together it equals a 22 degree angle. That replicates the angle at the rear of the aileron. You pull it up snug to the bottom of the aileron, use a bungee cord to snug them up above the leading edge. I double checked with the laser light and it is dead on for neutral. I locked the bellcrank in neutral with a #30 drill bit and adjusted the connecting rod bearings to find the spot that holds the aileron securely in the neutral position. Also made sure that the bearing threads were threaded in past the witness holes. I disengaged neutral and checked max down angle first. The neutral position started at 83 degrees with my angle finder on the bottom side of the aileron. Rotated the aileron down and had to remove the connecting rod several times to rasp out the spar hole to a kidney shape when I was done. Down angle at max read 99 degrees, making a total of 16 degrees down. Did the same procedure moving the aileron up and when done the angle was 53 degrees (83-53 equals 30 degrees up aileron. Clecoed a .125 thick aileron stop in place and it was precisely aligned at 30 degrees up. I didn't have to trim the stop because it was one of the pre-made parts from Barnard Aviation Co. from a long time ago. That was before Vans sent kits to the Phillipines to quickbuild. Securely tightened the jam nuts and removed the aileron to permanently mount the outboard aileron bracket to the rear spar and outboard rib.
Strap and Laser confirming proper aileron positon.
In process of riveting the outboard aileron bracket.
Aileron connecting rod hole in rear spar shaped like kidney.
