I sanded and primed the outside of the counter weight water pipe and the inside for the first 2" or so. I followed the directions for the order of things to rivet untill I got to the point where the bottom was clecoed up. From there I did what I thought made sence for my situation. You see, I have an issue with the end rib holes not matching the holes in the skin.
The problem I think is that when you do the trailing edge bend in the aft skin you are changing 2 things where Vans used constants to locate and drill holes in both the ribs and skin. Durring the bend you are creating your own custom radius and possibly adding a custom number of degrees to the radius. It's no wonder the holes don't line up. After my bend the skins were straight but when I put the ribs on I had to tweek it a bit to line up the holes. This tweek really messed up the straightness of the trailing edge bend. I ended up riveting the ribs last. First I weighed the aileron down with a flat board and a couple of boxes of inline wheels that we sell. I riveted the rib to the spar, then cleco clamped the rib flange to the skin making sure the trailing edge were still straight. I then matched drilled the rib to skin holes again. They were off by as much as 1/32". I then had to squeeze the matching dimples with my dimple plyers because the dimples didn't line up thus the rivet didn't sit flush. So, the moral of the story is, if the skin is straight then the rib holes need to match the straight skin. Don't tweek the skin to match the rib.
I dipped the pulled rivet in primer when riveting the counter weight water pipe to the leading edge.
Take note that your rivet puller has a swivel head and rotating it 180 degrees made it easier to pull the bottom skins to the spar as in image 2.
