Brief Description: Brake pedals and master cylinders
I continued work on the rudder pedals; it sure seems this is taking too long time. There are lots of holes to drill into steel and I go very slowly, I sure would hate to mess up one of these parts. I greased the rudder pedal tubes and installed them with the support blocks bolted in place. I started to torque the bolts into the nylon block like every other bolt, don’t do this, it will deform the block and cause binding so that the rudder pedal does not rotate smoothly. I basically tightened the nut until snug with no binding. Next I had to drill several holes in the main slide tube; these holes are used to hold the pedals in place at various distances fore and aft.
They call the lower part a pedal but really it does not look like a pedal but that is what moves the rudder, the upper aluminum part that looks like a pedal are for the toe brakes. I deburred these parts, I still need to make an extension for the bottoms of these but you will read about that later. I decided to go ahead and mount the pedals as is so I could attach the brake master cylinders. There is some test fitting required to determine where the hole in the brake pedal gets drilled, the top of the master cylinder gets attached here. There is a dimension called out in the plans but the instructions mention that if you have large feet you may want to move this hole so the pedal sits more forward. I just went with the plans. After attaching the left pedal you mount the right pedal and compare the planned hole in the right pedal. You want the brake pedals at the same deflection. For mine the same hole dimension called out in the plans worked to keep the pedals even. Next I need to start on the mechanism that allows for the adjustment of the pedals, it is a cable and pin system but I will leave that for another day.
Adjustment holes in slide bar
Brake pedals and cylinders attached. Pedals in the most rear position
This will be the back side (firewall side) of the pedals
