I used the soldering iron to remove the plastic around all of the holes in the skin. Then I deburred all of the holes on the rudder skin and David helped me dimple them using the Avery C-Frame. The inner-most holes along the trailing edge were dimpled using the pop-rivet dimple dies. Once everything was cleaned up, I back-riveted all of the stiffeners to the skin. This was a little more difficult than I had anticipated. The flush rivets turned out great on the outside skin. However, some of the shop heads on the inside of the skin are not as staight as I would have liked. It was hard to keep the back-rivet set perpendicular. Also, it was rather difficult riveting the rivets along the trailing edge. The skin had to be pushed apart and a fair amount of pressure applied to hold the bottom skin flat while doing this so the skin wouldn't pull away from the stiffeners while riveting. I probably couuld have used David's help here as well.
