As I am learning the typical sequence of assembly for each component, the stabilizer starts the same way. The rear and front spare sub-assemblies come first. Doublers and hinge brackets are deburred and clecoed in place. Everything is match drilled and countersunk. Everything is taken apart, cleaned, deburred and primed for assembly.
It is critical to follow the instructions presicely, even when I don't understand exactly why. The directions don't explain the reasons, and so I am left to puzzle things out. For example the spar flange doublers are match drilled per the instructions with a 3/32" drill ... (not a 40 as is typical for final hole size) A 3.32" drill bit is 0.009" smaller than a #40 leaving a hole that will not fit a rivet. Well the reason is to leave a small amount of material for removal when the skins are added to the assembly and match drilled to final size.
I have a fair amount of experience in steel fabrication and am finding light weight (read thin and fragile) aluminum very different to work with. This is taking some getting used to.
Back to the build (sort of) I put together a paint priming station to minimize over spray in the shop. It is too cold to spray outside, and a full booth would take too much room. I made a square frame from 2X4s 3' X 9' and stretched 1/2" weave plastic fencing cloth. I then built legs for either end incorporating a 20" X 20" box fan at each end with a 20" X 20" furnace filter duct taped over each fan. I then wrapped a blue tarp under the whole thing to create an enclosure. Fans on and paint down through the fencing and shazam ... no overspray at all in the shop. The whole thing cost about $60 including the fans. It can also be taken down and set asside.