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Wendells RV-6A
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Date:  10-27-2010
Number of Hours:  4.00
Manual Reference:  Right Aileron
Brief Description:  Completed Right Aileron

Right Aileron complete. Had a small case of mis match drilling on the inboard nose rib flange. Riveted an 063 angle to correct the issue. When I first matched the skin to the skeleton, I mistakenly drilled 3 holes #41 through the prepunched skin. Later, when I stretched the skins tight I saw the holes did not match up anymore. I should have waited before drilling those 3 holes. So, I added the angle, and drilled 3 holes again through the prepunched skin. Went through the nose rib flange and then through the angle. Probably didn't need to add the angle but I did for extra insurance. Had to round off the squared off angle to snugly fit into the curve of the nose rib where the flange meets the web. I experimented with different bucking bars to set the AN426AD3 rivets in the top of the spar. Best one overall was the AT-669. You have to be extremely careful not to crease your skin by letting a bucking bar vibrate against it while you were trying to set the shop head inside on the spar. The AT-669 gave you clearance, plus a better grip in the tight work space inside the aileron. Torqued the AN3-14A brackets nylock nuts to 25 inch llbs plus 5 inch lbs friction for #30 inch lbs total. Bracket 1/4 inch mounting hole measured 5/16 inch below bottom skin, exactly right measurement on both ends. 2nd measurement is 1 5/8 inch from center of tooling hole line to the 1/4 inch mounting hole in the bracket. Again, it was exactly right. I was happy.
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Pulled off all the vinyl and cleaned it up best I could.

Pulled off all the vinyl and cleaned it up best I could.

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Used a lot of CS4-4 pop rivets on bottom spar plus holding the galvanized pipe in place.

Used a lot of CS4-4 pop rivets on bottom spar plus holding the galvanized pipe in place.

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Outboard end.

Outboard end.

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