Brief Description: Fuel Tank Access Cover and More Countersinking
Removed wooden clamps and noticed too much proseal on rear baffle flange. It will interfere with main spar flange when tank is mounted. You basically only have enough room to just cover the rivet shop heads. Don't go any further aft. I put a sandpaper wheel in the Dremel tool and it removed the excess proseal very easily. Test fitted the tank and it finally fit fine. There are 34 holddown screws that require a countersink in the tank skin rather than dimples. This will match up with the K1000-08 normal nutplates in the spar flange. Countersunk all those using my cordless drill and a pilotless countersink bit. Hold bit steady, drill at slow speed and it was easy to get done. A couple scres in the last picture sit a little proud, but thats because I didn't tighten them all the way. Tanks coming back off again soon. I used TiteSeal medium weight gasket compound on both sided of the cork gasket. Actually put it on the metal parts with a trimmed down stiff miniature parts cleaning brush. Used an awl to line up the holes through the gasket and installed the 12 screws. I painted the end of each screw with tite seal as well. When you tighten them up, tite seal oozes out of the screw heads and perimeter of the gasket. Painted tite seal onto one side ofa rubber gasket which wil eventually hold the fuel level sender. Right now it is holding the air fill valve so I can inflate the tank and balloons for testing tomorrow. I will put two balloons on. One on the fuel vent line and one on the fuel exit line and hope for the best. Must remember to duct tape the fuel fill cap. I read that even when closed, they will leak air.
