*I was a little nervous about this step, but it went well. I got everything ready by removing the anodizing from the spar and roughing up the bond areas on the wrap and root skins. I used 3M VHB tape on the front of the ribs under the wrap, and I am always impressed by how this stuff sticks.
*Once the leading edge wrap was riveted in place and everything was ready to go I gave the bond area a final wipe down with MEK. Then I pushed the wrap against the spar and marked the edge. Next I removed the protective layer from the double stick tape. I used the 3M DP460 with the applicator gun, and it was easy to apply. I had put a strip of 1.5" masking tape below the bond area which turned out to be a good move as the glue tends to run and sag. I found that if I apply the glue about 1/8" above the mark I made at the edge of the wrap it would sag down to the line by the time I was ready to push the wrap into place. I had the waxed paper taped in place and folded back, so once the glue was applied it was pretty swift motion to place the waxed paper, boards and clamps. It was not hard to do myself, but an extra hand to hold the board while the first clamps were placed would have been nice.
* I glued the wrap without the root skins in place thinking that one step at a time would increase my chances of success. This worked well for me.
* I started the cleanup and found that the glue can easily be removed from the anodized area with a razor blade. The roughed up area is a little more difficult, but I am expecting a sanding block will make short work of this task.
I used a 3/16" or so glue bead, which resulted in exactly one tube of glue per leading edge wrap.
