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Marlins Web Site
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Date: 3-28-2023
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Number of Hours: 17.00
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Manual Reference: OP-40
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Brief Description: Rivet Rubber Baffle Seals
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The rubber baffle seals are riveted to the baffles from the outer side of the baffle with a special wide-head pop rivet and a washer. Spacing for the #30 holes is approximately 1 ½ inches. I’s a very time-consuming process and I had to have my wife assist to hold the washers tight against the rubber while I riveted. My wife used a small socket wrench with a 10-inch extension to press the washer against the rubber. It worked pretty well. These are the pictures of the rubber baffles installed. I made an incorrect assumption that I needed to overlap the back corners. It’s not a big deal though, all I need to do is make a V-shaped cut in the side-baffle rubber where it overlaps the back seals. At the end of the day, this may be better than not overlapping. Also, I overlapped each side piece so as air flows aft, the rubber seal in front overlaps the next piece, etc. When we finally made it all the way around, I decided to make a rubber seal for the bottoms of the front baffles. There is approximately ¼ inch gap between the baffles and the engine (in some places) an the rubber seals very nicely. The curved baffle cuts in the aluminum that VANs made around the engine are apparently for a generic engine, hence, the uneven gaps I will either seal with rubber or lots of RTV. Even though I cut out rubber seal material for the tops of the front baffles, I first need to install/fiberglass the elephant-ear shaped inlet extensions onto the upper cowl. Once again, there are no VANs instructions (or even pictures) that show how these are installed. I’m going home to research other builders kitlog construction blogs to see how this is done…GRRR.
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Wife Vacumming Drill Filings
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Sides and Back Rubber Seals
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Bottoms of Front Baffles
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