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Steve & Nancy Riffe
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Date:  11-3-2015
Number of Hours:  3.00
Manual Reference:  
Brief Description:  L. tank attach bracket

Well, I got a bigger hammer and beat the F-863-1 left and right tank attach brackets until they bled. Finally had to shape the bottom tang a wee bit on the scotchbrite wheel to make it fit flush. I started on the right side—clamped the bracket into position. I climbed inside the fuse and used a #30 long drill thru the bottom hole. The top hole looks next to impossible to drill from the inside—I just couldn’t flex the long bit enough to get the proper angle. That was the least of my problems. When I climbed out of the fuse, I found the bracket had somehow slipped in the clamp and the bottom hole was drilled to high—now the top hole won’t have minimum edge distance-%$&#*%! I’ll have to order some more angle and make another bracket for the right side. So, I moved to the left side. Went thru the same procedure, but clamped much, much tighter—so tight that it was difficult to get the c-clamps apart afterward. I put a thin piece of masking tape on the top tang before clamping the bracket into position. I drilled the lower hole from inside the fuse. Climbed out and clecoed the bottom hole. Back in the fuse I went—sure was a bunch of climbing in and out today. I used a short #30 drill bit, pushed it thru the top hole and tapped it with a small wrench. Climbed out and remove the clamp & cleco from the bracket. The bit had left a faint impression in the tape. I center punched, drilled to 1/16” and finally to #30. Installed the bracket—whoo hoo, the hole lined up nicely. After I’m done with fairings and such, I’ll remove the wings and match drill the bracket and fuse to #13 for the AN3 bolts. With the wings removed, this should be an easy step. I hope to repeat the process for the right side AFTER I fab a new bracket.
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Drilling lower hole

Drilling lower hole

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Can't get a cleco in the top-stuck in a #30 bit instead

Can't get a cleco in the top-stuck in a #30 bit instead

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