Brief Description: Getting started with rivets - Kinda
Today I started the assembly process on 6-4, but I already discovered a problem. I actually countersunk the holes in the rear spar to fit AN-426-AD3's instead of 4's. Not that big of a deal over all, but I do have to countersink them correctly (which means breaking the primer).
I countersunk the holes correctly this time, then I used an artist air brush to re-prime the inside of the new countersink's.
Just a small bump in the road and all is well.
Now we're headed to the table again and getting started riveting. Here's the summary: Back riveting is easy. If you're using a bucking bar, remember that the tool your using is your bucking bar - not your rivet gun. If you focus on the rivet gun, you'll screw up every time. But if you focus on the bucking bar and let the gun do it's thing, you'll get much better results.
While I riveted the rear spar doubler to the rear spar, I really spend too much time working hard. I spent most of my time learning the process. I set probably 30 rivets today and had to drill out probably 10 of those.
I'm going to take the parts to some experienced eyes (most likely Mark Dews) and let him tell me what he sees. I have a feeling that I over-drove some of the rivets. One day, when my order shows up from aircraft spruce, I'll actually have a rivet gauge that you can use. The ones from Avery are terrible because they only show you one size. But the Aircraft Spruce (if I ever get it) gauge will show min and max shop head size.
