The trailing edges were completed over an elapse time of three weeks. The first trailing edge worked on was the right aileron. This turned out to be and adventure. Both ailerons had large wavy gaps in the trailing edges, When clecoed together with the trailing edge wedge, there were gaps between clecos as if the length between holes on one skin was ever so slightly longer than the other. To place even pressure along the entire length of the top an bottom trailing edge, I drilled holes in two lengths of 1/16th inch ¾ x ¾ angle to be clecoed to both the top and bottom of the trailing edge. I put proseal on the trail edge wedge and then clecoed it in place with an angle on the top and bottom and let it set for six days. I was not sure that I had mixed the proseal in the right proportions and wanted it to have the best opportunity to set-up.
Unfortunately, it did not complete set up and it did not hold the surfaces together when I took out the clecos. It probably did not help that I also had primer on the skins. I took the pieces apart and proceeded to clean proseal form all surfaces using a plastic scrapper and MEK. (Later I discovered when have difficulties with a flap that a small scotch bright wheel on a die grinder works about five times faster). I then decided to proceed to rivet the trailing edge without proseal. I set the aileron on the tabletop side down, weighed it down with the trailing edge on the steel bucking bar set into the table and set the rivets using -3 rivets per the rivet callout, although these looked short. The result was a perfectly straight trailing edge but with a number of gaps between the skins and wedge between rivets. After consulting with a fellow builder, I decided to drill out the rivets. As a result of drilling out the rivets, I discovered that a number of the -3 rivets had very little purchase and appeared to have been too short. This time I carefully measured out the proseal ingredients. The result, after four day of curing was that the edge held together. I
