Brief Description: "Really" finished the bellcranks...
I was having a hard time figuring out what was supposed to move and what was supposed to remain fixed in the bell crank assemblies. I posted the question to the SonexTalk forum and got this back and forth response:
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The response was that the assembly is supposed to move as a whole which requires a great deal of reaming and they bypass the epoxy chromate primer as it just wears off. As I could not find any help on the Sonextalk site or other builders' sites, I posted a video of how it is supposed to look when done right for other builders out there...hope it helps.
http://tinyurl.com/cvymfb
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So from your video it looks like the bronze bushings essentially stay still (don't rotate), but that the rest of the assembly is tightened down so that the arm, steel bushings, and bolt all act as one part and move together?
That means the steel bushings should rotate within the bronze bushings. If that's the case, I'm going to have to do some work to the bronze or steel bushings, as they are way too tight for the steel bushings to move within the bronze bushings. The steel bushings press into the bronze bushings very snugly, and the steel absolutely doesn't move within the bronze.
Do I have this right?
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That is correct...and yes it will require a good amount of fine tuning to get it just right. The entire assembly needs to rotate as one inside of the oiled bronze bushing. This can be done by reaming the bushing or by reducing the outer diameter of the spacer. I chose the latter opting to keep as much soft bronze as possible so that, with wear, I could always insert another steel spacer. What you absolutely don't want is anything wearing on the AN bolt! I use my grinding wheel and (use this with your own discretion) place a screw driver through the spacer acting as an axle for the spacer. When placed against the wheel it spins at a matching rpm so I used a gloved hand to slow the spacer down just slightly giving me an even grind all the way a
