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Jeff & Jackie's RV-8 Project
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Date:  10-11-2006
Number of Hours:  1.75
Manual Reference:  7-11
Brief Description:  Left flap, skeleton & bottom skin

Hmmm, now I get it. Made a start on the left flap this evening after finally working out what I had to do. First I drew a center line around the FL-404-L outboard rib and then cleco side-gripped it to the bottom skin so the hole showed through the pre-punched holes. Then I drilled and cleco'd the rib to the front spar, which I had already cleco'd to the bottom skin. Next, I did the same for the next FL-405-L rib only this time I held it to the front spar with a large cleco C-clamp, drilled and cleco'd the bottom hole, removed the C-clamp and drilled the top hole. I positioned the rear of the rib so I could see the line through the rear spar, and double-checked that I could also see the line through the row of holes in the bottom skin. Then I drilled and cleco'd the rib to the rear spar. I did this for all the internal ribs. Finally, the FL-404-R rib at the inboard end was cleco-side-gripped and drilled to the front spar. Next, I flipped the hole assembly over, double-checked my lines through the bottom skin and drilled and cleco'd all the ribs to the bottom skin. Sweet, that's the main part of the flap skeleton together. And now for the bad news: there's a discrepancy between DWG 10A (wing) and DWG 14A (flap) where the W-721 flap brace rivets to the W-707D rear spar doubler on the wing. The wing drawing calls out for AN470 universal head rivets. The flap drawing calls to dimple the flap brace, countersink the doubler and use AN426 flush rivets. Guess which ones I used? Yep, that particular enquiry has gone to Vans, and I'm rather hoping the universal rivets won't be a problem.
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Outboard rib (flanges facing out)

Outboard rib (flanges facing out)

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Holding the internal rib to the spar

Holding the internal rib to the spar

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Left flap skeleton drilled and cleco'd

Left flap skeleton drilled and cleco'd

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