- Rivetted the rudder counterbalance rib to the rudder spar. - Rivetted the rudder counterbalance skin to the rudder counterbalance rib. - Installed the rudder counterbalance weight in the c.b. rib. - Clecoed the rudder skins to the understructure. - Clecoed the rudder trailing edge (every hole) to help keep it aligned while riveting of understructure to skin. - Rivetted the rudder skin to the understructure. * Note: need some MK-319-BS blind rivets for the hard to get to areas (Already ordered, just waiting for them). I had fabricated a chisel to reach in tight spaces (Polished it just like a regular bucking bar) but it doesn't work really well. This .020 skin ends up getting pretty mangled because the chisel isn't very heavy and it takes a long time to drive a rivet. It also nicks up the ribs pretty bad, despite the duct tape on the sharp edges. - Used CS4-4 blind rivets on the R-901 rudder skin to rudder horn and rudder spar connection. There wasn't enough room to get a bucking bar in the rudder horn access hole. Avery does have some that would have worked. I'm considering ordering one for any future occurences of this scenario. - Aligned and caefully rivetted the trailing edge of the rudder. Checked the alignment every couple of rivets. Still need to finish seating all the rivets because the directions say to only partially seat the rivets, then to go back and finish them with a mushroom bit.
* WHAT'S LEFT TO DO: - Final rivet the trailing edge. - Roll the leading edge (doesn't look fun!). - Blind rivet the leading edge. - Install Rudder rod end bearings. - Install the Rudder on the VS and fine tune the eye bolts. - Install the fiberglass pieces (may wait until the end for this...also need the System 6 lights for the Rudder).
