|
|
|
|
Serenity
|
Date: 10-20-2006
|
Number of Hours: 2.00
|
Manual Reference:
|
Brief Description: riveting trailing edge
|
|
OK - time to do the deaded trailing edge. Actually, the date for this is 10/21 - since the Kitlog program doesn't allow more than 3 pics a day, I split the 10/21 work into two day's entries. I allowed the fuel tank sealant to cure for two days, then removed all clecoes. The FTS wasn't fully cured due to cool garage temps in the 50's, but it was good enough. All holes and dimples cleaned of FTS. I placed flush rivets in all holes and covered with rivet tape, flipped rudder. Pic 1 shows how I back riveted on the steel plate, then I would slide the plate, keeping the same thickness wood trim on either side for support. More identical trim was used to support the rudder front, so the trailing edge side down was parallel with the table. After PARTIALLY setting each rivet in sequences of every five (which I numbered) as per Van's instructions, I flipped the rudder over and then flush riveted the manufacturer heads, while the steel plate smushed the shop head until even with skin (see pic 2 for final result). Final drum roll...the edge came out dead straight (pic 3)! Ahhh, Corona! Tip - when backriveting initially, you start perpendicular to the rivet, but must quickly angle the set to be parallel with the upside skin. I delayed a couple times too long (like greater than a second), and ended up with some smilies. Tip 2 - follow Van's instructions on doing a very light initial set and keep checking the edge for bowing. Tip 3 - Before riveting, I cleaned all the holes of FTS with a #40 drill, then used the Avery deburring countersink bit over a lacquer thinner soaked paper towel to clean each dimple with a spin or two.
|
|
trailing edge supported on plate and wood trim
|
|
Finished shop head side - mostly fills dimple
|
|
Sweeet!
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Copyright © 2001-2024 Matronics. All Rights Reserved.
|
