I got some 3/4 and 1 inch PVC with a three way fitting to create a tool for rolling the leading edges. The 3/4 inch PVC is used to form the upper LE only. The 1 inch PVC is used for the middle and lower LE. You use a template as a guide to make sure the final shape is correct. If the LE sits too far forward of the spar, you'll get some interference with the vertical stabilizer when you install the rudder. Time spent here getting the right shape saves lots of time later.
I managed to get the top and middle edges shaped and riveted together without too much trouble. Between a combination of using the PVC and finishing the final shape by hand I was able to get the top edge spot on and I got close with the middle. I think it's more important to get the distance correct than to get the curvature perfect. The B template showed I'm pretty good on the edge to spar distance. I guess I'll know for sure when I mount the rudder to the vertical stabilizer.
I made a stab at doing the lower portion, but it because apparent that the overhang of skin is longer and it'll require another set of hands to roll that edge properly. I'll see if I can borrow a neighbor to finish it out.
The rudder is almost done! Can't wait to start on the wing kit next.
Upper leading edge not perfect, but well within limits.
Top and middle done
Curve doesn't match exactly, but distance from the rivet to the forward edge is more important
