Moved the antifreeze overflow to the left side of the engine compartment (same side as the inspection door) so I can see the level when I check the oil. This required me to get the output oil line connected to the top of the oil tank at just the right angle so the it did not hit the overflow tank and still left room to remove the oil filler cap. Before connecting the oil lines to the oil tank, I filled the input oil line using a special small funnel and pouring slowly into the line allowing the air to bleed out. Once it was full, I left it sit for a few hours and then added more. I was able to get ~3/4 of a quart of oil in the lines. I then filled the oil tank with oil and connected the input oil line (using Loctite and minimizing the amount of air in the line). I attached a 2x4 in the place of the prop, then removed the lower spark plugs, squirted a tiny bit of oil in each cylinder and turned over the engine until a steady stream of oil came out of the output oil pipe. Remember the output oil pipe has to be lower than the bottom of the engine for the oil to flow because without the spark plugs, the dry sump will not pressurize and push the oil out. Once clean oil came out, I attached the output oil line to the oil tank (using Loctite), put spark plugs back in the engine and turned over the engine until I got the signature Rotax burp from the oil tank. I then fill the oil tank to the top of the fill line on the dipstick. I attached the oil breather tube to the oil tank and drilled a hole in the lower firewall flange at the bottom of the airplane so if oil sprays out of the tube, it will spray into the engine cooling airflow and hopefully not hit the bottom of the plane
