Cleaned up the garage and shop from all the metal shavings resulting from preparing the canopy slide bar.
Inventoried the parts for the canopy frame installation. I found a bin of misc parts mixed with pop rivets. Within that bin were the bolts for the canopy rollers and the #6 screws for mounting the slide rail to the fuselage.
Referred to the Standard Aircraft Practices book and catalogs from Wicks and Aircraft Spruce to identify the hardware.
Canopy frame. I finished the canopy rail slide bar by countersinking the holes for the #6 screws. I noted that the screws would not fit in the 1/8 holes, so I drilled them one size larger.
Drilled the canopy slide block that attaches to the canopy frame under the retention pin. Installed the clevis pin, which I also found during my inventory, countersinking in to make it flush with the side of the block. Drilled the hole in the block for the cotter pin that secures the clevis pin. Installed the completed assembly on the canopy frame.
Checked the line of the slider rail position on the fuselage by attaching a string from the middle of the hole where the front of the rail secures, to the middle of the top of the rear of the fuselage. Drilled the holes in the fuselage for the #6 screws.
Temporarily mounted the slider rail, the two side roller rails, and the canopy frame. I had to spread the front of the canopy rail open two inches to about 27 inches to make it fit onto the roller assemblies that I temporarily installed into the side roller rails which were taped and clamped onto the fuselage.
Cut a couple of inches off the length of both roller rails so that I could temporarily fit them.
The fit seems good with two possible areas of concern. There is a finger with distance between the front of the canopy frame and the roll bar. From pics that I have seen of other projects, this seems normal. The rear of the canopy frame is 2 inches above the slider rail. I have read that it is common to have to lower that by bending it down, but the pla
