I got most of the holes countersunk on the spar. I did all of the flush holes that are for rivets. I still need to do the flush holes for the machine screws, as this requires me to set the micro-stop countersinking tool to a different setting.
I made a test run with the micro-stop to make sure it was set correctly to make a countersink that had the 19/64" diameter required per the plans. Once this was done, I started countersinking the holes. I kept checking the diameter created by using my calipers. I noticed the holes were slightly getting larger with use. I'm guessing that as the countersink starts to wear, the setting needs to be adjusted to maintain the same depth, which I did.
The only trouble I ran into was when I needed to countersink some holes on the spar cap flange. I was able to use the micro-stop where the top of the spar cap was cut away, but this would not work where the top of the spar cap is not cut away because there was no room for the micro-stop to fit in. What I did was to mount the countersink cutter on a long rod that had a threaded hole on the end with the same thread as the cutter. I got this rod from my "Tight Fit" tool kit. I chucked the rod into my drill and had to do the countersinking manually, constantly checking the depth/diameter with my calipers to make sure I did not go too deep. These countersinks did not come out as well as if I used the micro-stop but they are good enough.
Test run I made to make sure micro-stop was set correctly.
Using the micro-stop tool to countersink the holes.
