Tried to post a couple of differnet pictures that some of the other build sites do not have.
I started off clamping the 707E to the spar....this sits on the very end of the spar....just be careful and study the plans real close. I almost messed up on this part. Best thing to do is clamp on the 707G fork to make sure all the holes line up and then make sure the upper flange is facing you, then you will know which end the 707E goes on. Next measure over from the outboard end of the rear spar 50 3/4" and place the 707F plate and clamp it on. Back drill all of the holes in both plates and match drill the 707G fork and 707D plate. Also dont forget to trace the hole for the aleron push rod.
Next take everything back apart, deburr all the holes and cut out the aleron push rod hole in the 707E. I did this the same as everyone else, use a unibit to drill several holes and then take a dremel tool with a sanding drum and sand off the remaining aluminum to the line you just traced.
One last thing to do before calling it quits for the day. The manual says to go ahead and drill the flange holes on the rear spar where the 707G fork sits becuse once the fork is riveted in place it will interfere with rivet sqeezer. Make sure to put some tape on the spar to prevent the squeezer from scratching the surface.
Tomorrow I wll try to get the rest of the other rear spar done and maybe start deburring some ribs while I still wait for my tie down bracket and the weather to warm up so I can prime the rear spar and parts.
using the dremel tool to shape up the aleron push rod hole
Tape place alon the spar to keep from scratching the surface while dimpling
Holes dimpled on the spar that woud be hard to get to once the 707G reinforcement fork is riveted on