I used the left over lead from shaping the counterweight lead to fill and redrill the holes that did not come out straight enough to allow the washers and locknuts to go on. This was a first since I have not melted metal before (other than solder). Did a lot of online reading about how to do it. I used a tuna fish can and a propane torch to heat the lead until it melted then poured it into the holes. It does not waste time hardening. Guess the melting point and solid state temps are really close. After a slow cool down (30 minutes) I was able to handle it counterweight. Measured the holes using the E-713 counterweight skin, then used the drill press to make the new holes.
