Started on fabricating the gull-wing (GW) doors. Image 1: Here you can see the gussets holding the door frame members together. Since I'm not able to weld aluminum, I decided to reinforce the joint where the upper and lower frames connect with a short length of 0.5" 6061 tubing (Image 1). Components: The round tubing on the left is the reinforcing tube that goes inside the square tube. Next to it is a sliver of 0.05" 'spacing' stock. I had two of these for every joint, to shim-up the tubing on the inside if the square tubing. The green epoxy-coated part is the combination of the three about to be inserted into the joint between the upper and lower door frames. All are held in place as the gussets get riveted onto the frame.
Door latch mechanism. A 3.5" 5/16 Grade 8 steel bolt with the head cut off is the pivot point. Outside handle cut from 0.193" 6061-T6, is held on with a 3/32" roll pin (3/4" long) from Ace hardware. Believe it or not, our #30 bits are exactly the right size for this size roll pin. The exterior spacer-collar is 0.193" stock made with a 7/8" hole saw, which was also used to fabricate the nylon spacer that protects the door panel. The interior latch is 1/8" thick angle stock 1.25" x 1.25", cut down as shown. The handle is fixed to some 1/4" 6061 stock tapped to receive two #8 stainless screws (recessed). I used a 1/8" pin from A/C (hole drilled with an 1/8" bit). I wanted to be able to service this easily (as opposed to another roll-pin). Nylon 'bearing' is held on to door frame with 3/16" rivets. 1/4" steel rod painted red is the actuator that pins the door to the frame in the rear, and am AN3 clevis pin holds the rod to the latch. I was able to use the lock from the original Rebel kit, completing the door nicely.
