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Rob's REBVAIR Project
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Date: 7-18-2009
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Number of Hours: 6.00
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Manual Reference: Chapter 12
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Brief Description: Top aft corner wraps
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With the new new floor complete and clecoed, it was on to the infamous corner wraps. There has been a lot of debate on the required thickness of the 8 (total) corner wraps on the aircraft. The previous builder used 0.020" on the upper front, and 0.025" on the lower two. The latter is the minimum recommended in that position, so I was happy to see that. It was my good fortune that none of the rear wraps had been completed, so I was able to select the all around best thickness of 0.025" for both top and bottom wraps. (Murphy supplied 0.020"). These are remarkably easy to fabricate, and some careful measuring enabled me to minimize waste by cutting 4 identical pieces, with edges going from 16 to 12" (trapezoidal shape). With regard to forming these, one simply needs to make a relatively sharp bend at one end, and I did so with the same wood block and technique I used to make the FUS31 doubler. If you are doing this yourself, be mindful of the way the bend "travels" ; Even if you place the edge of the block completely perpendicular to the edge being bent, when you initiate the bend, it has a tendency to travel away from the clamped block, so much so, that if you don't adjust for this, your bend will render the piece unusable (don't ask how I know this). If possible, try it on a test piece and you'll see. I used the palm of my hand to exert the force. In the end, it worked out quite nicely as you can see in the photos. It's worth noting that the manual here did a good job of guiding you through the "forming" process necessary at the junction with bulhead A. Remember that only the center three inches or so need this treatment, and don't go overboard...you can't unstretch it!
Can't remember where I saw this, but using straps to hold down the wraps when back drilling is critical. I am happy with the results.
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using straps to hold the wrap down when back-drilling
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left side
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right side
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