Rear Spars - 3 hours Tonight I finished deburring all the components for both rear spars. I have finally adopted a method of deburring that I feel works very well. The first thing I do is take my file and draw file all the edges. This removes the "bumps" left from the stamping process and gets the edge flat. Then I make two passes with the Royal Multi-Burr tool, then two passes on the bench mounted scotch brite wheel. It works great.
I started match drilling the W707-E and F doublers on the right wing spar. I haven't cut the aileron push tube hole yet.
I also trimmed the W707G and D reinforcement fork and doubler plate per Drawing 38. I took my time and laid out the measurements then roughly cut the big part off with a hack saw. I removed the small part and finished the cut up with the belt sander. It's probably worth mentioning that I not only laid out the cut lines with marker, but also scored the material lightly with a razor. My belt sander tends to cook off marker lines before I get to them. I also clecoed W707G and W707D together and trimmed them simultaneously, this way their edges match perfectly. After cutting they went through the debur process mentioned above.
3/21/2008 Rear Spars & Ribs - 4 hours Today I finished the holes for the aileron push tubes in the W-707E doubler plates. I used a unibit backed up with a 2x4 to make a bunch of holes, then finished the holes off with files / emory cloth / scotchbrite. Each hole took about 20 minutes. I then deburred an dimpled in a few locations that need it. All the top flange holes on the rear spar that are above the reinforcement fork got drilled and dimpled, as you can't reach these once the fork is installed. I dimpled the top flange of the W-707E & F doublers and the corresponding holes on the top spar flange as well. I also dimpled the four most outboard holes on the spar and W-707F doubler instead of machine countersinking. Then I primed all the necessary places.
I started deburring lightening holes on the wing ribs - this is going to suck
