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K rv
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Date: 1-22-2008
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Number of Hours: 0.00
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Manual Reference:
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Brief Description:
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Right Elevator Complete (Almost) - 2.5 Hours
Tonight I completed the right elevator (minus the tips and rolling the leading edge). I got some RTV and had to un-cleco the skin AGAIN to put it at the TE, but got it done. I used the pneumatic squeezer with the 4" yoke to squeeze all the rivets. I ended up using pop rivets for the last hole on each side for the top and bottom (a total of four).
1/24/2008
Left Elevator - 2.5 Hours
Tonight I match drilled the stiffeners and the reinforcement plate to the left elevator skin. I removed strips of blue plastic with the soldering iron method. I deburred all the holes in the skin, stiffeners, and reinforcement plate, then dimpled the holes in the skin.
I really like the C-frame for dimpling. I have used the DRDT-2 before, and actually prefer the C-frame. It's not as quiet, but I don't have to worry too much about noise level. I used the pop-rivet dimpler to dimple the eight holes closest to the trailing edge on the skin. Another one of my favorite tools.
1/27/2008
Rudder trailing edge - 4 hours
I spent quite a while today routing out one of my work tables to install the full-length back rivet plate that I made. I routed a 4" x 75" space in the table and it took forever! I started routing in the shop, but routing MDF creates a TON of dust, so I took the table outside to finish. Now I need to REALLY clean the shop again. Anyhow, it turned out great:
I also drove out to Auburn, AL this morning to pick up a set of wing stands that Paul Rose donated to my project. They are very nice, made from extruded aluminum.
So I back riveted the trailing edge of the rudder on my new back rivet plate. I followed the directions and weighted the rudder down to the table. I used some carpet padding and some railroad jacks for the weight.
I just took my time and spaced the riveting out and came out with a very straight trailing edge.
The shop heads of the double-flush rivets look good too:
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