Brief Description: Preparing to rivet the Rudder Trailing Edge
Good news is that the trailing edge had dried after about 6 days with the garage lights in close proximity. This time, when I removed the clecos, all was attached. I was very nervous that the TE would fall apart, so I treated it very carefully.
After cleaning up the countersunk holes using a #39 drill and a 100deg deburring tool, I blind riveted the spar onto the shear clips. It all went together very easily.
Next task was to complete the riveting of the rudder horn. It uses a combination of blind anc conventional rivets. I was able to squeeze all these rivets.
Then it was time to move onto the top rib, which I was able to both buck and drive by myself. Both the Gun and the Bucking bar can be placed on the table surface as you drive these rivets with the exception of the two that hold the spar in place.
I then commenced riveting the spar flange to the skins. Most of these rivets are able to be squeezed, except the one nearest the top rib. This one I drove. You need to use a 4 inch yoke to reach the flange for many of the rivets towards the base of the rudder.
At this point, one is supposed to attach the counterbalance rib. I chose not to as I want to make sure I have good access to the leading edge skin nearest that rib when I roll the leading edges. I dont think it will make any difference when I am riveting the TE.
