I completed the final drilling of the Rudder skins, trailing edge ribs and spar today using a #30. The instructions are pretty explicite about clecoing everything, which is what I did. That is a lot of clecos. They give the arms a good workout. I found that while drilling the nearest hole to the TE, I could not use a Cleco on the other side as the end of the cleco would protrude through the hole that you were trying to drill. The task took quite a while to complete on both sides. I then took everything apart again per the instructions.
I put an slight bend in the trailing edge of each sheet. I have the Cleaveleand edge forming tool: http://www.cleavelandtool.com/prodinfo.asp?number=EF60#.UJufu8XviSo I used it to put a small bend into the trailing edge. Towards the end of the first sheet, the skin rode up over the guide rller and put a very small crease into the edge. Very annoying. The damage is very minor, but annoying none the less. The point at which the angle is formed in the tool is about 1/4"away from the guiding edge of the roller and that edge is unsupported, so that it is possible for the skin to ride up over the guide edge. 8(.
I think that I did two things wrong. 1. I was going a bit to fast. The second skin, I rolled the roller with my fingers and this produced a good result. 2. I think that I allowed the roller alignment to drift which is why it rode up. Something to think about for next time.
As I disassembled the remainder of the skeleton, I found what I thought was a further problem.
The Edge Distance for the R-1003A and R1003B components is very compromised. Here is the text I put onto vansairforce and the responses I received.
I have commenced working on the Rudder and I am wondering about the edge distance for the parts R-1003 and R-1004. I had completed all the skin drilling and was about to sta
Edge Distance on the R-1003A
Edge Distance on my original cleaned up R-1004A
Edge Distance on a pristine R-1004A has the same problem.
