Brief Description: Right wing wiring and tank removal
The right wing was brought back on the bench and the nose opened up. This was done for two reasons.
First of all, I have to admit to a big, huge oops! I put the fuel sender in the outboard end of the right tank rather than the inboard! I realized this last week when I was sick and thinking about the build. It bothered me when I installed it on the outboard that it would not read accurately, but it didn't bother me enough to stop and double check. I was fooled by a mis-print in the manual that tells you to install rubber grommets into the tooling holes of nose rib 1-4 to handle the sender wiring. This might have been true when the sender was on top of the tank (but why NR4?) but does not apply with the new sender location. The solution is to have the tank pulled and a new endcap welded in place to cover the hole. It will take a few days but it will be done by a professional aviation welder recommened by KPB and will be pressure tested again.
The second reason for opening the skin was to wire the lighing in the wing. Since I am now a seasoned pro at wiring (one whole days experience) I figured I would tackle this before I forgot the techniques.
Finally, before closing the skin nose skin up and putting the right wing in storage (the tank will be re-installed before Canadian preclose inspection) I removed and rotated the taxi/landing lights 90 degrees. I originally installed them with the filiments horizontal, but have since been advised by Sean of KPB that they should be vertical for longer life.
Strobe wiring and wire management
Taxi/landing light wiring
While the skin was open, the landing lights were rotated 90 degrees
