Well it started with trying different ideas to cut the nylon blocks in half. I thought about the table saw, but the kerf would be more than the 1/16 max called out on the drawing. I tried the hacks saw for a few strokes and realized that would take forever and look terrible. After much thought, I think it's time to buy a band saw...until I started to price them. Even the small table top saws are expensive....then I remembered a friend who is big into wood working and helps out at Cub Scout pine wood derby time. After a quick call and a run over to his house I found out he had a very nice free standing band saw (Jet), which worked nicely to cut each block in half. Now, I'm ready to start butting things together. First I clamped everything down to the workbench with blocks tightened down. Next I connected the master cylinders as defined in the drawings. Finally I clamped on the pedal in place with a c-clamp as shown in the drawing. Well it's hard to get a c-clamp to stay on a round tube, especially as you try applying a littler pressure during the drilling process. So I used a little duct tape to hold the tube in position and give the c-clamp something to grip. It worked ok for the first hole, but I noticed the pedal slipped out a little leaving a small gap. This allowed the torque tube to slide back and forth a little...only about 1/16, but I knew it would bother me to have a little side motion slop in the pedal. Since this was just the first hole I decided to use a file to elongate it a little in the torque tube, then clamp the pedal assembly long ways along the length of the torque tube (see figure 1). This worked well for the next size drill bit and I was back in business. I ended up just holding the square up against the pedal to keep it oriented while drilling. It takes a while to drill through the steel and I went through a couple drill bits even though I stopped and lubed often. The first set turned out nicely. One thing to point out. Make sure you drill out all the holes in the rudder
