Brief Description: Staic Port installation (10-09)
Ok, riveting the static port in place was easy. Getting the mandrels out was not...at first. The supplementary instructions stated to drive out the mandrel, so I tried tapping on it with the left over stem...no go and it sounded bad trying to tap on the now so sturdy airframe at this point in the build. SO after much research on the web with no real help, I decided that I could use the same approach/technique that was used to install the bushings (section 10-04), where I used a c-clamp to push the mandrel out. This worked great and didn't require me going to a hobby store or soldering washer into place. I simply looked through my tool box and found a washer (in this case an L-bracket (not sure what this goes to, but it worked fine). The hole in the washer was large enough to fit over the rivet on the inside of the side skin, then I used a 3/16" socket over the rivet to provide clearance and clamp onto with the c-clamp. The socket may have worked fine, but I didn't want to chance damaging the skin. Next I shortened the left over shank of the rivet and placed that into the static port (outside). With the help of some duct tape to hold things together I used the c-clamp to push the pin through and the mandrell out through the socket. This worked great with almost no pressure. Finally now started to route the lines and RTV things in place. I went with the ultra blue (sensor safe) RTV. I was a little confused on the schematic of the line arrangement since the manual didn't match the extra instructions, but after looking at some more recent posts (2012 and later) I decided that VANS made a change...I guess I'll find out later what the reason is.
