The next step in the process is to install the rudder so it swings freely. The gap between the counterbalance arm and the top of the vertical stabilizer should be even as should the gap between the vertical stabilizer and the forward face of the rudder. This is a little tricky when you thread the rod end bearings and jam nuts into the rudder spar because the instructions tell you to measure from the center of the pivot bolt hole to the forward face of the spar. As a starting point Van's instructions say to use 51/64" for the top 63/64" for the middle, and 13/64 for the bottom rod end bearings. Those instructions make a lot of assumptions about the exact placement of the hinges on the vertical stabilizer. The first attempt at installation required adjustments of the rod end bearings; as did the 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th....I put it on, made measurements and took it off and repeated this process several times Finally the 5th attempt resulted in a perfectly spaced gap along the length of the rudder, consistent space along the vertical height of the counterbalance arm, and the rudder swings freely with no binding. Whew...who woulda thunk it would take 4 hours to install three bolts through three rod ends?
I also bought a piece of plumbers pipe insulation foam from Lowes to protect the VOR/ILS antenna cable and attached it with a couple zip-ties, since I didn't install any internal bushings in the vertical stabilizer for the antenna cable when I built the stabilizer. Originally, I planned to install a Garmin 430W and dual Grand Rapids EFIS/AHRS systems and not have a VOR/ILS radio at all. Finances changed that just a little....hence the foam.
