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Marlins Web Site
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Date: 3-14-2019
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Number of Hours: 9.00
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Manual Reference: Ch 9; DWG 41-43
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Brief Description: Re-adjusted the Canopy Frame…again.
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Earlier in the week, I rechecked the canopy frame to ensure the top center of the frame at the rear is 1/16” to 1/8” below the turtle deck to allow for the canopy thickness, and that the front top of the frame is about 1/8” – 3/16” higher than the roll bar; and the frame bows approximately the same distance outside the roll bar all the way down to the fuselage intersection. I thought I had everything correct, but found the left, top of the frame to be 3/16" low, so I spent the last three days readjusting the frame…again. The tubing holding the rollers on the side rails needed to be trimmed about ¼” so the top of the frame could be adjusted to the proper height above the rollover bar. To correct the issues with the frame being low, I cut blocks of wood and zip-tied them to the bottom frame so it would be parallel with the fuselage when I made all the frame adjustments. The side rail canopy tracks are wider than it says they should be in the manual, too. It is what it is…so I drilled all the side rail attachment holes where they should be in the final location. I also adjusted the top slider rail and drilled holes in the top skin so I could cleco the rail to the fuselage. The manual said to duct-tape the rail to the fuselage, but it was impossible to make bends in the frame and expect the duct tape to keep the rail in-place. There were several times the clecos even popped out (with so much force one of them stuck in my ceiling). I’m glad I had the fuselage covered with a blanket or they would have dented the fuselage…again. I wasn’t a happy camper but now, at least, the frame is finally ready to mark and cut the plexiglass canopy.
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My drawing for measurements
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Wood Blocks & Cut Roller Tubing
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Front View of Rollover & Frame
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