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Bill's RV-10 Builder Page
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Date:  7-21-2010
Number of Hours:  4.00
Manual Reference:  
Brief Description:  Sanding the engine cowling filler/primer

No pinholes visiible except around the inside of the engine inlets where I didn't fully spread the Lohle WonderFil.

The filler/primer gives off some sickening fumes long after it cures. Took 2 or 3 days before it was really tolerable without the fans on or my fresh air mask on. Ironically, turning on the fans blows all the cool air out and fills the booth with 95 degree air. All sanding done with fresh air mask on - I love it.

My paint guy (Doug Glenn with Ricky and Jamie - I go once a day it seems) has set me up for sanding with blocks and rolls of adhesive backed paper - I chose 180, 220, and 320.

Using Metal Glaze (from Lohle) for fill at this point. I've been using epoxy based stuff exclusively up to this point but I keep reading that the polyester fillers are easier and faster. That proves to be right. Instead of waiting hours or overnight to cure, you have to race to use even the smallest amount before it sets up on you spreader. Productive and handy. Very easy to sand very smooth. Bondo rules! BTW, my Dupont guy says Metal Glaze is the best quality 'bondo' they carry - not sure what that means but ok.

The grey gives you a good indication of how the sanding is going. After one application of 3 coats on the top cowling, some patching, and block sanding with 180, I think that may be enough filler. I'm going to spray a black guide coat and give it some strokes with the 220 to see what we have. Then either a single coat of filler or sand and put aside for later.
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3 rubber Dura-Blocks - the round one is particularly handy

3 rubber Dura-Blocks - the round one is particularly handy

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Metal Glaze applied in spots - probably too much already

Metal Glaze applied in spots - probably too much already

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After some guide coat, more patching - probably not needed at this point

After some guide coat, more patching - probably not needed at this point

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