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Larry Winger's 601XL Project
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Date:  1-18-2010
Number of Hours:  4.50
Manual Reference:  
Brief Description:  Removed spar rivets

For anyone who has cared enough to read this entire Kitlog (poor soul), you may remember the serious handwringing that accompanied my days of learning how to do solid riveting. Today I took the advanced course in how to undo all that work in just a few hours. What I learned is that if you have unhindered access to the factory head (the round, domed one), along with the right tools, removing a solid rivet is not that hard. What I also learned is that working around ribs that are in the way can really ruin a perfectly good day. Out of 45 rivets to be removed, probably 6 gave me fits. A couple are bad enough that I will be required to go up in size to a bolt. No problem, but just a little added weight. Out of an abundance of caution, I'll use bolts wherever I see any signs of enlargement. Because I had a rivet removal tool from Brown Tools, I was able to go with larger drill bit sizes than ZAC specified in the photo guide. I checked this with Roger and was given the green light. On the 5/32" rivets, I used a #21 bit. On the 3/16" rivets I went w ith #12 to start, followed by a #30 right down the middle. I then removed the rivets using a 1/8" pin punch greatly aided by the pneumatic rivet gun. DON'T TRY TO DRIVE OUT THE RIVETS WITHOUT MECHANICAL ADVANTAGE LIKE THE RIVET GUN. You will go crazy without it. One other note: Always clamp the adjacent holes when removing any rivet. If not, you can be sure that the stack of materials will spread and you'll be in for real fun.
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The old cap laying on top with the new extruded angle setting in place

The old cap laying on top with the new extruded angle setting in place

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45 rivets in 4.5 hours

45 rivets in 4.5 hours

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Another view

Another view

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