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Kurt Haller RV-9A
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Date:  2-3-2017
Number of Hours:  35.00
Manual Reference:  
Brief Description:  Canopy summary

I haven't detailed all the steps to cut, drill, install, and fair in the sliding canopy and windshield, The 35 hours of time here is a total guess how many hours were spent getting it to this nearly complete state. I went by the plans with respected to fasteners. (No Sikaflex, etc,, just the rivets Vans plans call out.) The slider plexi didn't follow the center member of the canopy bow very well. Riveted a series of half-circles of 032 2024-T3 along the bow so the rivets on the center strip could secure the canopy without putting undue stress on in,

Windshield installation had a hiccup: Having delayed so long riveting on the last top skin, I had forgotten the plexi-to-rollbar rivets need some shimming on both sides at the bottom to match the slider. I didn't see this until the first layer of fiberglas cloth had been applied to the windshield/fuselage joint and cured. Decided to build up the thickness of the fairing going across the rollbar to blend this in...looks OK on the starboard side--and pretty bloody obvious to port.

Debating now whether to round off the fairing line on the windshield at the bottom rear corners to make room for a gentler slope from the slider bulge to the windshield/fairing line.

This Images show the windshield after sanding the penultimate epoxy skim coat to 220, and removing the electrical tape which defined the fairing/windshield line. One more oops seen in Image 3: on the port side, the roll-bar fairing should have been just a tad wider to cover the slider bow rivets. I could leave it for now, and re-do when it's time to paint the bloody thing.
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Starboard side--slider bulge not too bad

Starboard side--slider bulge not too bad

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Head on view down the port side shows the bulge the most.

Head on view down the port side shows the bulge the most.

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