Instead of starting with hand reaming, I used the power drill from the start. Not pretty good!
The reamer drilled a bit off the center line of the hole, leaving a ridge on the the side wall. Was able to straighten the reamers path and drill a little bit deeper to the end. Top hole is a bit out of round, and the ridge wasn't completely gone.
The taper pin shoulder at the small end comes thru a lot more than the left gear pin does. Comes very close to bottoming out on the taper pin washer. I found I can put a 5/16" washer around the little end of the pin, so the taper pin washer bears against the washer which bears on the gear weldment. No bottom-out when the 1/4-28 shear castle nut is brought up to torque.
Well, this pin doesn't have complete contact at every point on its conical surface. But it sure makes more solid contact than the 5/16" bolt did. It probably is fine...but I should look into buying (or making) next size up taper pin so I can ream the taper in the leg and weldment cleanly. Or, buy another right gear leg and weldment.
