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Kurt Haller RV-9A
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Date: 7-3-2007
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Number of Hours: 2.50
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Manual Reference: 7
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Brief Description: Tanks
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Mixed up 2nd pro-seal batch of the day. Removed the aft line of clecos from the top skin of the left tank, drilled the holes w/#40 to clear any clinging bits of semi-cured sealant, then poked the holes with a toothpick dipped in sealant. This filled the csnk holes on the outside, so when the rivets were put in, got a good squeeze out of sealant all around the head, but not so much that there was more than a dime/quarter sized spot of sealant around the head after setting.
Used a squeezer for the outboard rib rivet, and bucked the interior rib rivets. Repeated until all of the top skin-to-rib rivets were in place. Wiped of the sealant spots and walla--almost one-half of one tanks rib rivets are in: photo #1.
By the time all this riveting was done, sealant was startind to stiffen up. Use a flat stick to put a bead (hah!) on the inside edges of the left tank outboard rib (photo #2). I guess that seal should be enough, but I put a dollop on the shop heads of this rib's rivets. To get a solid dollop, I needed a fairly big schlag of sealant on the end of a stick. But touch this to the shop head left a ton more than needed. In the end, I just buttered the whole bloody thing (photo #3). Also wound up covering the entire nose reinforcement plate because to dollops on the rivet heads there merged.
I think this is good insurance for the nose area, backing up the inside seal where the nose tabs leave no metal, and the deeper flutes also leave no metal between the interior of the tank and the outside world. But higher up on the joint, it's overkill. Oh well, the whole batch of uncured sealant weighed a total of 33 g (I'm using an electronic scale to get the 1:10 proportions for the pro-seal), so the plane will be overweight by less than an ounce.
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Left tank top skin--riveted!
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Outboard rib interior seal
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Outboard rib rivet shop head overkill!
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