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Kurt Haller RV-9A
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Date:  4-2-2017
Number of Hours:  8.00
Manual Reference:  
Brief Description:  Painted n.g. fork and mushrooms

I scotch-brited the nose fork and wiped with acetone, taped the ends of the still greased-up bushing, shot Rustoleum self etching primer (greenish stuff, a lot like Duplicolor's) and then a coat of Rust-o dark machine grey. Same treatmemnt given to the mushroom's large-dia surfaces. The surfaces in contact with the face and inner race of the Timken bearings were left bare, and will be good and greasy in final assy.

The wheel pant brackets slide on behind an oversized 3/8' washer on the axle bolt, its edge bearing against a stack of two AN960 washers (one regular thickness, one thin) and are then secured with the cap scews that also serve as tow bar tie points. I lost the fancy oversized & hardened washers that came in the kit, but the substituted grade 8 hardware store washers should serve as well. Don't see why they need to be hardened. There's plenty of clearance for the sheet metal which may close up when the brackets are painted too.

To (re)set breakout force without taking out the axle bolt, I cross-drilled the head and shank 1/16". A loop of 0.041 safety wire can be pulled by the fish scale to set the factory recommended 22 lbs.

I put the fork back on the nose gear (no pics) and set the force to 24-26 lbs when the wheel is aligned longitudinally. The force is a little higher starting from the extremes of the fork rotation. According to Vans, the force relaxes over 15 hrs or so of operation, then stays constant between annual condition inspections. May the (breakout) Force be with you...
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Painted fork still shows bee-yudiful welds.

Painted fork still shows bee-yudiful welds.

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Drilled bolt head and shank

Drilled bolt head and shank

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Tow button diameter is 9/16

Tow button diameter is 9/16"

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