Made a simple pencil holder that had a 3/8 radius which I used to mark the min gap required between upper cowl and the baffle top edge so that room will be avail for the baffle material and to also provide for engine movement. I used masking tape on the baffles and then scribed the line and then cut and sand refit and start again.
After the back baffles fit with small gap, I moved on to the front side baffles and front baffles using same technique.
Once I had a gap I switched to a paperclip technique which works nicely. Install paperclips all along the edge leaving desired gap with paperclip sticking up. Mark locations on baffle. Install cowl top and check visually. Remove cowl, Mark how much clips moved. Connect the dots with pin stripe tape and cut again and file. ETC...
Added the #4 cylinder baffle and the oil cooler baffle and proceeded with same technique as others.
Big problem encountered with the oil cooler baffle/brace.. It wont work as I had fitted. BEWARE! If ypour following Vans plans for cowl and oil cooler and baffle kit etc... DO NOT cut the oil cooler cut out into the baffle until you have fitted the top cowl!! Though the plans show fairly nicely the hole location, DO nOT trust it. ITs not even close. My oil cooler hits the upper cowl 1/8 inch Before the cowl is seated which means I need to lower it 1/2 inch or more. Easier said then done unfortunately. So I proceded to at least fit what I had with proper clearences and then will use it as a template for the new one when I get it. Oh well....moving on.
see next entry for additional photos of this
simple 3/8 marking device
SScribe gap lines and making several cuts creeping up to scribe line
Paper clip technique works well for marking cut lines where you cant reach to mark
