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Ron's Web Site
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Date: 8-30-2009
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Number of Hours: 9.00
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Manual Reference:
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Brief Description: Flap RIgging
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I rigged the flaps. Although I couldn't find a reference for a "flap stop", I saw that others had used one, so I went to the Auto Parts store and bought some 3/4 inch heater hose, split it longitudninally and glued it in place on the flap bracket with 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive and additionally secured it with safety wire front and aft. The plans are drawn but not labeled showing the flap lever arm in the wing root going from 40 deg forward to 30 deg aft between the flaps up and the fully-deployed position. I adjusted the flap lever arm to 37.5 deg, which was slightly forward of the plans indicated position, because I was concerned about crowding of the lever arm with full flap deployment. The springs should be mounted before drilling the torque tube to the flap bellcrank, which forces the bellcrank to the flap stop. I pinned the flaps to the neutral position, and adjusted the pushrods to midposition. I then drilled the torque tube to the bell crank using a drill guide made from an inch of a Center-It extrusion, drilled and bushed to accept a 3/16 inch drill bit. I then fabricated the flap cables setting the turnbuckles to exactly 0 threads showing (3 showing or 4 internal is acceptable) and a cable pressure of 22 lbs. On the left wing everything was fine, but on the right side, I needed to relieve the front gusset about 1/8 inch (which was discussed with Bob Barrows) to keep the nicopress fitting from binding on the gusset. I also made 1/2 inch bushings to try to keep the cable centered on the upside-down "V" formed by the spar and its fuselage attachment site. Before drilling the torque tube to the bellcrank, inboard-outboard positioning of the flap lever arm should be optimized to keep the cable senter on the upside-down "V".
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Drilled, springs mounted, stop in place.
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Right wing gusset relief.
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Full flaps.
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