I read up on how others did it and what follows is how I did it and, at the time of publishing, so far so good.
Please note this is for a Sika canopy with no drilled holes and a bonded top edge skirt with lower skirt riveted. The LAA are happy with this proposal as the bond I plan to use is an aviation approved epoxy. For the sika canopy to depart the aircraft not only would the sika have to fail on the frame but so to the bond on the skirt/canopy - unlikely as it is over quite a large surface area. Most of what follows are just subtle variations of the plans.
PREP
I shimmed the canopy block 1/8" by using some 1/4" balsa wood that I crushed when I closed the canopy - two reference marks were made - closed position (without balsa) and 1/8" aft of that position when I crushed the balsa. Do whatever it takes to shim the canopy frame 1/8" aft of closed.
I peeled back the canopy protection to expose about 1" above the edge. As I had sika'd I used some red electrical tape to mark the edge of the sika fillet (the advice by others is use NOTHING ELSE but electrical tape on the canopy - under the blue mask tape is electrical tape) - I plan to trim the skirt to this line for a seamless transition.
I also marked the aft edge of the top forward skin onto the blue tape for trimming later (when you do left side - I did left first but didn't take photos of this bit - also mark onto tape/forward top skin the edges of the canopy handle hole).
#40 Avery cobalt drills were used with masking tape over the frame to drill pilot holes. If I did this again I think I would use clear tape (to stop drill slipping and see the proper centre) as some of my holes were off centre - as you can see! I subsequently repositioned those.
TRIM SKIRT
Tin snips worked a treat apart from 3/4 back where there is some thicker material and I used an air driven cut off wheel for that - I trimmed slightly more than 1/4" and I'm glad I did for some sections - suggest 3/8" as you will be final trimming anyway! Sand edges smooth.
