I spent a little time cleaning up all the excess proseal off the trailing edge and out of the holes. Next I laid down a piece of .5 in. X 3 in. X 6 ft. flat metal that I picked up from a local metal dealer for $17 to use as a back-rivet plate. I read on a few build sites that this is preferred so you don't have to keep moving the piece around on a smaller plate and possibly getting less than desirable results and I have to say that this worked great. It allowed me to go at a quicker pace and as you can see from the third picture that I ended up with a very straight trailing edge. I started with the center rivet and went ten rivets left and then right and then left again and so on. Then I riveted every fifth rivet on each side of the center by alternating sides then every two and you get where I'm going with this. I used my back-rivet set and started parallel to the rivet and tilted it as I riveted. After all the rivets were halfway set I flipped the rudder over and back- riveted with the mushroom set following the same rivet pattern as before. Then I turned the rudder over again and used the mushroom set again the same way just to make sure the shop side of the rivets were nice and flush. I am very pleased with the results.
Weighted boxes to hold rudder down while I riveted.
