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Patrick Kelley (Flion)
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Date: 6-18-2011
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Number of Hours: 5.30
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Manual Reference: 18-4.5 to 18-5.5
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Brief Description: Prepare Fuel Tank for riveting
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After drilling all the screw holes to #19, I disassembled the tank. While disassembling, I labelled the parts so they could be replaced. This included the Z-brackets, the ribs, and the stiffeners. The thin pieces I dimpled using a squeezer. I countersunk the fuel filler flange and the flanges of the tank attach bracket. You can also see in the second picture that I countersunk the nutplate rivet holes in the shims instead of dimpling; it was easy to back up the holes using the tank attach bracket. I match-drilled and deburred all the small parts such as the finger strainer flange and the anti-rotation bracket for the end rib and even dimpled the nutplates for the fuel sender attachment. I then riveted the nutplates and shims to the tank attach bracket, since they don't require ProSeal. I also prepared 3/16" universal rivets to fill the tooling holes in the end ribs, preferring that to making cover plates in those locations. This method was used in my RV-6A with great success.
With all the small parts out of the way, I turned to the skins, which were dimpled using the C-frame. Everything went well with the exception of one dent caused by the skin jumping off the die just as I struck it. The die did not penetrate so I used a flat set to smooth it out; it looks like it will be visible but not to the touch and so will be hidden by paint. I will also put a dab of ProSeal on the inside over it as a precaution. The row of rivets for the baffle to the skin, top and bottom, were neither countersunk nor dimpled; they will be countersunk in assembly just before sealing the baffle in.
Rivet count: 21 Total: 8704 - Plus 549 done at Van's
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