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Patrick Kelley (Flion)
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Date: 6-7-2011
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Number of Hours: 7.20
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Manual Reference: 17-3.5 to .13
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Brief Description: Prepared left outboard leading edge for riveting
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Actually, first I found a way to rivet the COMM antenna doublers to the seat ribs. I had forgotten to rivet them before putting the bottom skin in place. Due to the closeness of seat ribs, using a gun was out of the question. But after beginning riveting of the bottom skin I suddenly realized I couldn't get a pop-rivet puller in there either ... until I remembered a trick. The puller would not go with the arms wide open but it could be inserted nearly closed and then opened enough that a pop rivet nail would slide in the puller. So, insert a nail but not all the way, so the handles could be nearly closed without pulling the rivet. Insert the rivet into the hole with the nearly closed puller and squeeze the handles to get a slight pull. Open the handles, slide the puller toward the rivet, and repeat. It took about 4 squeezes for each rivet but it worked.
With that task out of the way, I turned to the leading edge. I match-drilled all the ribs and the J-stiffener. When I was done, I drilled the screw holes in the splice plate to #19 and countersunk the holes for the nutplate rivets. Then I disassembled the whole thing and dimpled everything except the back row, top and bottom, which can be done with a squeezer after I am sure of the fit to the spar. Then I primed the splice plate, removed the plastic from the skin, and filled the two holes for the stall horn slot with rivets. When the primer dried, I riveted the K1100 nutplates to the splice strip and then clecoed everything back together. Now we are ready to rivet.
Rivet count: 48 Total: 7046 - Plus 549 done at Van's
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