Part 1. Clecoed down the 2nd side of the skins to the frame. Left out the tip ribs and inboard forward ribs. Got the trailing edge of the skins lined up on the aft spar and drilled. Drilled the skins to all the ribs and forward spar. Got good alignment on this 2nd side drilling - I had drawn centerlines on all the ribs and the forward spar (aft spar falls out where the trailing edge of the skin lines up), and got good edge distance on all the holes drilled through. Put the hinges in place and drilled these. Used a 2nd piece of hinge pinned to the to-be-drilled hinge, with the hinge opened out flat to approximately 180 degrees - this worked out great and the hinges are so straight I can run the pins in for the elevators by hand. Put the tip ribs in place and drilled these. Took the skins completely off and positioned the inboard leading edge ribs on their brackets. Drilled these in place. Drilled the tip ribs to the forward spar (these holes get drilled from inside out), and put the skins back on. Noted where the forward most holes would be in the inboard leading edge ribs, marked them, took them out, and cut them back - trimmed about 1/4" off the forward end of each of these ribs. If they're too long, they poke into the skin and make the wrap very difficult from one side of the stab to the other. With the ribs trimmed back, it was easy to cleco them back into place on their clips and drill the rib holes through the skin.
2nd bend set up. Small spacer blocks (shown) used under the 4x4.
2nd side of the skin clamped down. The cans of clecoes really weren't needed.
