Riveted rudder skins to the rudder frame. There is a specific sequence to start and various rivet sizes (as was there during riveting the frame) followed by mounting the lead counterbalance weight at the tip of the rudder. last night i match drilled the weight to the rib and countersunk the holes so the #10 fastener would sit flush. You kind of back your way out of the tip by riveting skins, installing the weight, rivet more skins, and sclose it off with the top rib.
most of the flush rivets at the leading edge and top and bottom ribs can be set with the hand squeezer, which produces good quality rivets. AD3's are pretty easy to squeeze by hand. AD4 diameters as used in most empennage spar assemblies can be done by hand but are pretty tough. I wouldnt want to do an entire spar with a hand squeezer. The rivets that weren't accessible with the yoke are pretty easily achieved with the flush rivet set and bucking bar. During installation of the entire skin assebly i probably drilled out and replaced 6 rivets that did not turn out well... usually complacency on my behalf.
I left out two rivets of the trailing edges of the top and bottom ribs on each side until my "no hole" yoke arrives in the mail. The space here is too narrow for normal means and methods (see dimpling photo on previous entry). I think the no hole yoke will get at least one more if not both, whatever is left will get the alternate MK-319-BS pop Rivet.
(4/16/12 Update - No Hole yoke arrived - I was able to utilize it to install four more rivets towards the trailing edges of the rudder - one on each side top and bottom - this left me with two hole on the top trailing edges and one hole on the bottom trailing edges in which I installed the MK-319-BS pop rivet per Vans instruction manual.)
Lead counterweight in top of rudder counterbalance rib
Joining skin to Counterbalance skin (top leading edge od rudder)