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Date:  12-29-2017
Number of Hours:  4.50
Manual Reference:  Section 7
Brief Description:  Drill, Deburr and Countersink Left Aileron

Cleco'd the nose ribs to the spar and checked for alignment/straightness with the nose skin. All looked good, so I match drilled to the spar. Dis-assembled and deburred the holes. Edge finished the parts with files, emory paper and scotchbrite. Smoothed the leading edge curve of the ribs on the scotchbrite wheel.
I cleco'd the entire left aileron assembly together and used a #40 drill to match drill the skins to the skeleton on the top and the bottom of the aileron. Then I centerpunched each hole and used a new #40 drill to match drill the counterweight to the skin. I started in the center and cleco'd each hole as I drilled every other hole left and right down the counterweight. Once all the holes were drilled, I used a new #30 drill to open up the holes, again clecoing as I went. I also opend the holes on the bottom of the aileron spar to #30 for the blind rivets.
Removed the trailing edge skin and ribs and cleco'd the leading edge section together. Used the long #30 drill to match drill the nose rib to the counterweight. Deburred the trailing edge skin inside and out. Scuffed the edges with scotchbrite. Deburred the main ribs and scuffed with scotchbrite.
Dis-assembled the leading edge, deburred all holes, scuffed parts with scotcbrite. Used the edge roller to put a slight bend in the leading edge skin for the lap joint with the trailing edge skin. Dimpled holes in the skin and spar with squeezer. Used the countersink cutter to countersink the counterweight for the blind flush rivets. Screwed a 2 x 8 to the bending brake to make a support for the leading edge skin. Cleco'd the skin to the counterweight and used a male dimple die in the C-frame die holder to dimple the skin.
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Assembled for drilling

Assembled for drilling

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Dimple leading edge

Dimple leading edge

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More dimpling

More dimpling

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